Issue 35: the Amalfi coast, out of season
Positano in April, before the boats, when the stairs are yours and the lemons are on the trees...
The Amalfi coast in July is a traffic jam with a view. In April it is the view without the jam, and the sea is just about warm enough if you are stubborn.
Positano
A town made of stairs. Every walk is a climb or a descent, and the reward at the bottom is the beach and the reward at the top is the road out. Stay high, walk down for dinner, and take the bus back up with the locals.
The walk
The Path of the Gods, from Bomerano to Nocelle. Three hours, mostly flat, entirely on the edge of a cliff, with the whole coast below you. Do it in the morning and finish with lunch in Nocelle, where there are two restaurants and both are right.
The lemons
They are the size of grapefruit and they are everywhere. The limoncello is a tourist thing; the lemon on your grilled fish is not.
Getting there
Train to Salerno, then the ferry. Never the road, not in April, not ever, unless you enjoy reversing.
One place, every Thursday
The letter, in your inbox, before it is on the site. Nothing else, ever.
Writes Signal from wherever he was last Thursday. Eleven years, sixty countries, one forty-litre bag.
Signal
A weekly travel letter: one place, one week, one opinion.