Issue 32: Sardinia, the empty side
The west coast has the coves, the winds and none of the yachts. A week with a small car and no plan...
The east coast of Sardinia is where the money goes. The west is where the wind goes, and the wind knows something.
The coves
Dozens, most reachable only by a path that takes an hour and gives you a beach to yourself at the bottom. Bring water and shoes. The path back up is the price of the beach.
The towns
Bosa, on its river, painted every colour. Alghero, which is Catalan and knows it. Cabras, for the bottarga, which is cured mullet roe and tastes of the whole sea at once.
Driving
A small car. The roads are narrow and the villages narrower. Nothing is far, and everything takes an hour, and that is the right speed for the island.
The wind
The mistral comes down from France and blows for three days at a time. When it does, the beaches empty and the surfers appear. Wait it out with a book. It always stops.
One place, every Thursday
The letter, in your inbox, before it is on the site. Nothing else, ever.
Writes Signal from wherever he was last Thursday. Eleven years, sixty countries, one forty-litre bag.
Signal
A weekly travel letter: one place, one week, one opinion.